Friday 30 January 2009
Jean Paul Gaultier fall 09
In the past year, there's been a right old furor about racism in fashion, but one designer who has always been color-blind (and gender- and faith- and age-blind) is Jean Paul Gaultier, the industry's great humanist. In the week of an epochal presidential inauguration, he chose to take on the issue of black and white with a full-on celebration of black power. Gaultier referenced both politics (the Afros and militant stance of Angela Davis and Stokely Carmichael in the sixties) and pop (the sound and style of the Specials and the 2 Tone movement in the late seventies). The Clash were on the soundtrack, as a reminder that punk in England then was as free of prejudice as Gaultier is now.
Hugo by Hugo Boss
The black passage was followed by a dizzying array of patterns; virtually every conceivable variation of black and white was represented. Black-on-white graph patterns were followed by the same effect in white on black, followed by a large-format herringbone trench, followed by variants that mixed and matched all forms of black and white to create a DPM effect that almost blurred the eyes. Elsewhere, a skillful play of proportion and old-fashioned craftsmanship were apparent; peppered throughout were highly desirable pieces, like charcoal pencil pants with a banded waist, or a black cashmere trench that virtually shined. And just when the two-tone palette started to get oppressive, out came a sharply cut camel overcoat over a red turtleneck, followed by a blazer version of same, both shocking in their simplicity, the eye of Pieters' visual storm.
Gucci fall 09
Pet Shop Boys' "It's Alright" delivered Frida Giannini's message for today, as Milan's arch-eighties aficionado presented a collection of clothes inspired by power pop, the most optimistic face that new wave ever offered to the world. The shiny, tight little jacquard suits, the primary-colored shirts (Kelly green a particular aide-mémoire for Those Who Were There) matched with skinny ties, the leopard-print knits, the two-tone loafers, the tonic jeans, the checkerboard trim on a cardigan…ah, the memories came flooding back. The Lurex! The leggings! The Lurex leggings! Frida didn't miss a trick. She even managed a coat in a maroon mélange that hasn't been seen since the sun set on Danceteria.
Monday 26 January 2009
Emporio Armani fall 09
He by Mango
Sunday 25 January 2009
Iceberg - Milan
Iceberg began its show today with a couple of sweaters bearing the images of Goofy and Donald Duck, two staples of the label's nineties oeuvre. After that brief flashback came the sort of fluid sportswear that has been Iceberg's stock-in-trade in more recent seasons. Others have been exploring elements of English tailoring for Fall, but despite the presence of the odd pair of trousers in houndstooth or gray plaid, the emphasis here was on softer dressing. Knit blazers were paired with cashmere track pants and high-tech sneakers. (The palette was navy, gray, and camel, with accents of red or arctic blue.)
Friday 23 January 2009
Burberry Fall
These days I will show you more hot photos from the Milan fashion shows. Now it`s time for some Burberry. There are just the normal colours for the presented season- of course black, gray and some white. The new ones are the long pullovers which are very attractive and make very strong and interesting look.
Bottega Veneta fall 09
T shirt obsession
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